{"id":125772,"date":"2025-05-06T07:05:44","date_gmt":"2025-05-06T05:05:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magikindia.com\/?p=125772"},"modified":"2025-05-06T07:05:49","modified_gmt":"2025-05-06T05:05:49","slug":"ramgarh-the-forgotten-treasure-of-shekhawati","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magikindia.com\/en\/ramgarh-the-forgotten-treasure-of-shekhawati\/","title":{"rendered":"Ramgarh, the forgotten treasure of Shekhawati"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

If you’ve been following this blog for a while, you might know that Shekhawati<\/a> is one of my favourite regions in Rajasthan.<\/a> It’s a surprisingly under-visited destination despite its exceptional cultural richness. Of all the cities in Shekhawati, Ramgarh particularly caught my attention. Founded in the late 18th century by the famous Poddar family, it was one of the richest cities in India in the 19th century. This prosperity is reflected in the variety of its monuments: hundreds of palatial mansions, cenotaphs with elaborate frescoes, kua wells, and temples galore.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
Un des havelis de Ramgarh<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Legend has it that Ramgarh owes its existence to the queen of the Sikar kingdom, who wished to have the most prosperous city in Shekhawati<\/a><\/strong>. In response to her incessant requests, the Maharaja of Sikar summoned the wealthy merchants of Churu, the Poddar Seths, and asked them to settle there with seven families.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The merchants agreed on the condition that they would be granted any region they chose, that they would pay no taxes, and that they would rule the city themselves, without sitting below the king.<\/strong> The king agreed, and thus “Ramgarh Sethan” (the Ramgarh of the Seths), another name given to the city, was born.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
Un immense havelis sur la “podar street”<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The true story is that Ramgarh was founded following a rebellion by Churu merchants against excessive taxation of commodities by the local Thakur.<\/strong> The Poddars, in protest, migrated to another part of Shekhawati and named their new town “Ramgarh Sethan” to differentiate it from the many other Ramgarhs in India.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ramgarh was then the bastion of opulence and prosperity and, like Nawalgarh<\/a>, was known as the richest city in India at that time.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Seths built immense havelis (mansions), more than 200 in total, countless temples, kua wells, <\/a>Dharamsalas and caravanserais for travelers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
Les fresques avec des trains sont communes dans tout le Shekhawati<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Besides its commercial activity, Ramgarh was also known as a city of art and culture. <\/strong>Its center of learning of Sanskrit and the Vedas (sacred texts) earned it the title of “dooshra Varanasi,” the second Varanasi<\/a>, in reference to the spiritual capital of India.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Chattris of Ramgarh <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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\"Ramgarh\"
Le complexe de c\u00e9notaphes de Ram Gopal Poddar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ramgarh is especially known for its “chattris,” or cenotaphs, monuments erected in memory of the deceased.<\/strong> These are pavilion- or square-kiosk-shaped structures topped with domes, typical of Rajput architecture.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
Un des chhatris du complexe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The most visited is the “Ram Gopal Poddar” complex, built in the late 1800s<\/strong>. It comprises a total of six structures, including four chhatris, each with a Shivaite temple. The complex is, as its name suggests, dedicated to the ancestors of the Poddar family.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
Les fresques d’un des c\u00e9notaphes illustrant la danse “Raas Lila” de Krishna <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The structures feature colorful murals depicting various scenes from the life of Lord Krishna,<\/a> including the “Raas Lila,<\/a>” the ecstatic dance of Krishna and the gopis.<\/strong> Entrance to these chhatris is not public, and one must ask the caretaker (priest of the complex) for the key.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Un des \u00e9difices du complexe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Visitors often stick to this complex without realizing that a 5-minute walk further lies the most remarkable cenotaph in Ramgarh, and I would even say, in the whole of Shekhawati.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
Le chhatri Seth Gopal Gopal, \u00e0 5 minutes du complexe <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It is true that the exterior of the “Seth Gopal Chhatri” <\/strong>building is quite damaged and does not invite visitors. Furthermore, you must ask the caretaker for the key to enter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
La coupole du c\u00e9notaphe de Seth Gopal orn\u00e9e d’une splendide fresque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

But once inside the monument, it’s a big wow!<\/strong> The frescoes of the cenotaph, whose main color is turquoise blue, are simply breathtaking and one could spend hours contemplating this masterpiece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
La fresque repr\u00e9sentant des \u00e9pisodes du Ramayana <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

They depict the Ramayana, the famous Indian epic, in its entirety, so much so that the cenotaph is also known as “Ramayana Chhatri.”<\/strong> Episodes from the life of Lord Krishna can also be seen there, as in all Shekhawati paintings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
D\u00e9tail des peintures, le couronnement de Rama<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The bonus of this chhatri is its temple dedicated to Shiva, located below the building.<\/strong> The somber atmosphere of the sanctuary is softened by the vivid colors of the indigo-colored frescoes painted on the arches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ramgarh\"
Le temple d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 Shiva en dessus du c\u00e9notaphe <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Ramgarh\"
Autre d\u00e9tail du temple<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Shani temple<\/strong> & other visits<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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L’entr\u00e9e du temple de Shani<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If you were to visit only one monument in Ramgarh, it would undoubtedly be the Khemka Shani Temple! <\/strong>Built in the mid-19th century by the wealthy Khemka merchant family, this temple is a treasure trove filled with thousands of shimmering mirrors and intricate frescoes\u2026<\/p>\n\n\nKNOW MORE ABOUT THE SHANI TEMPLE<\/span><\/a>\n\n\n

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Le temple de Ganga <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For the other temples, I would mention the Ganga one, <\/strong>built by the Poddars in 1845 (open only during aratis ceremonies, in the morning and evening) and especially the Lal Kua Balaji one, <\/strong>located not far from “Poddar Street”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le temple Lal Kua Balaji avec son puits attenant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dedicated to Hanuman, the monkey god, this temple features a magnificent “Kua<\/a>“<\/strong> (well) topped by four Persian-style towers, typical of the Shekhawati region.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les anciennes fresques du temple Lal Kua Balaji d\u00e9crivant une des batailles du Ramayana<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The interior reveals ancient frescoes depicting the epic Ramayana, almost erased by time.<\/strong> The temple’s pujari is also very welcoming, which makes the experience even better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Le pr\u00eatre du temple et la statue d’Hanuman en arri\u00e8re-plan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Ramgarh Havelis <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Un des havelis de Ramgarh en face du temple d’Hanuman<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ramgarh’s palatial mansions are concentrated on Poddar Street and Ruia Street. Many of them are in very poor condition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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D\u00e9tails d’un haveli avec le couple Dhola Maru sur un dromadaire<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The haveli of Dalsukhrai Jaydayal Poddar is one of those that stands out. <\/strong>Built in 1880 by the Poddars, it has the distinction of having on its eastern facade a painted rhinoceros which, however, looks more like a large black dog. The animal could almost go unnoticed if it weren’t for a sort of porthole at the back of its body, the explanation for which I haven’t found.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00c0 gauche : le dieu Vishnou port\u00e9 par son aigle Varuna | \u00c0 droite: l’\u00e9nigmatique rhinoc\u00e9ros au hublot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We also find the recurring motifs of the Shekhawati frescoes: <\/strong>horsemen, lovers from the legend of Dhola Maru and above all trains, the absolute fascination of the time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Les havelis de la “podar street”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Detail d’un haveli avec la peinture d’un train, th\u00e8me r\u00e9current dans tout le Shekhawati<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The “kuas”<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Le kua du temple de Lal Balaji<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kuas, in the local language, are the wells of Shekhawati. <\/strong>Surrounded by two or four minaret-style towers, they boast a unique architecture in India. Yet another good reason to visit this region!<\/p>\n\n\nKNOW MORE ABOUT THE KUAS<\/span><\/a>\n\n\n

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D\u00e9tails des tours de type perse surplombant les puits du Shekhawati<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I hope this post has convinced you not to miss out on the beauty of Ramgarh and, more generally, Shekhawati during your next trip to Rajasthan. Contact us for a guided tour of the region; it’s one of our expertise!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dinesh Sharma, a native of Nawalgarh, is one of the best official cultural guides of the Shekhawati region and the co-director of MATHINI TRAVEL. With over 10 years of experience in the tourism industry, there’s no corner of Shekhawati that escapes him. He’s eager to share his passion for this unique region of India with you.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whatsapp: +91 9509122902<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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