{"id":36963,"date":"2020-12-12T03:43:00","date_gmt":"2020-12-12T02:43:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magikindia.com\/?p=36963"},"modified":"2026-08-15T06:11:22","modified_gmt":"2026-08-15T04:11:22","slug":"chettinad","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magikindia.com\/en\/chettinad\/","title":{"rendered":"Chettinad, the forgotten splendour of Tamil Nadu"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A realm of striking contrasts and timeless allure, Chettinad unquestionably reigns as the most captivating region in Tamil Nadu.<\/a> During the nineteenth century, affluent Chettiar merchants commissioned lavish, palace-like mansions that daringly fused Eastern and Western motifs. This distinctive architectural marriage yields an unmatched charm, beckoning travelers into a transcendent world where cultural depth and aesthetic beauty intertwine.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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One of the palaces of Chettinad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Spanning 1,550 square kilometres in the Sivagangai district of southern Tamil Nadu<\/a><\/strong>, Chettinad is a region comprising 73 villages, with Karaikudi as its capital.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is the ancestral homeland of the Nattukottai Chettiars, a mercantile community that built its fortunes in the 19th century through trade and banking, <\/strong>expanding its business activities across Southeast Asia. To display their wealth, the Chettiars had splendid palatial mansions erected, much like the Marwaris of Rajasthan.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Painting of Chettiar merchants<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In the aftermath of the Second World War, ruined by geopolitical upheavals, many Chettiars were forced into exile in South Asia (particularly Sri Lanka, Burma, and Malaysia) in search of a fresh start. <\/strong>The Chettinad region then lapsed into a deep slumber, abandoned by its inhabitants, and few were willing to invest in preserving the splendor of these exceptional residences.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Another palace in the region<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Today, nearly 10,000 of them are scattered across the region<\/strong>. While the vast majority of these palaces now stand abandoned, about a dozen open their doors to visitors, while others have been transformed into charming boutique hotels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Chettinad\"
Another Chettinad palace with its Gothic style on the second floor<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The architecture of Chettinad<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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\"Chettinad\"
The “thinnai” at the entrance of traditional Tamil Nadu houses, used for social functions<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Originally inspired by the traditional Tamil model, the homes of Chettinad were enriched by the eclectic influences brought back by merchants during their travels around the world.<\/strong> From this subtle aesthetic marriage a unique architecture was born, giving the region an incomparable atmosphere and identity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Chettinad\"
Colonnaded entrance opening onto the inner courtyard (H\u00f4tel Saratha Vilas)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On the ground floor, the architecture of the Chettinad residences is in keeping with the purest Tamil tradition.<\/strong> Their facades invariably open onto a\u00a0thinnai, a raised street veranda traditionally dedicated to social interaction and entertaining.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Chettinad\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The impluvium of the Laskmi mansion<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Stepping across the threshold, the entrance leads into a spacious hall or opens directly onto a large inner courtyard featuring a central impluvium<\/strong>, around which the bedrooms and various rooms of the house are harmoniously arranged.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Chettinad\"
On the upper floors, Western elements such as colonnades, cornices, and balustrades were added<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On the upper floors, Chettinad mansions break away from local tradition to adopt Western architectural elements, <\/strong>exemplified by magnificent colonnades, ornate cornices, balustrades, stained glass, and even windows with Gothic touches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Japanese ceramics on the walls<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Reflecting the cosmopolitan prosperity of their builders, the construction materials, decorative elements, and furnishings were largely imported from Asia and Europe;<\/strong> sumptuous crystal chandeliers from Belgium, delicate ceramics from Japan, Italian marble, and Burmese teak all bear witness to this global opulence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kanadukathan <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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The village of\u00a0Kanadukathan\u00a0establishes itself as the undisputed jewel of the Chettinad region. A true open-air museum, this locality seduces travelers with its exuberant architecture, inherited from rich 19th century merchants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lakshmi house (S.A.S.RM) \/ V.V.R. House \/  CVRM house
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Lakshmi House<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kanadukathan has several renovated palatial houses which can be visited, such as the Lakshmi House (S.A.S.RM), the V.V.R. House and the CVRM House.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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V.V.R. House<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Each of these residences offers a fascinating insight into the opulence of the Chettiar merchant era, revealing sumptuous interiors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Chettinad\"
The swing, a typical feature of traditional Tamil Nadu homes | CVRM House<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Sri Mahalakshmi Handloom <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
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Located on K.M. Street, in the immediate vicinity of the Royal Palace, this traditional weaving center is generally open every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.<\/strong> It is an essential stopover to observe the artisans at work on their manual looms and immerse yourself in their ancestral know-how.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The colourful Kandangi sarees<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

You will also find woven bags made from recycled plastic<\/strong>, a clever artisanal initiative that transforms modern materials into resistant and colourful accessories, thus perpetuating the tradition of creative recycling in the heart of the village.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Braided recycled plastic bags<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Chettinad region is famous for its\u00a0Kandangi sarees, unique hand-woven cotton pieces known for their vibrant hues<\/strong>, often accented with crimson, mustard yellow or emerald green, and their refined geometric borders. You can also observe this ancestral art in Karaikudi and Kadiapatti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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One of the saree manufacturing workshops in Kadiapatti.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Kanadukathan Palace<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
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Kanadukathan Palace<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Chettinad Palace, also known as Kanadukathan Palace, is the region’s quintessential architectural landmark.<\/strong> Built in 1912 by Raja Sir Annamalai Chettiar, this masterpiece took seven years to construct and remains a symbol of the opulence and prosperity enjoyed by the great merchants of that era.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kanadukathan Palace<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As the property remains a private family residence, full access requires special permission or prior arrangement<\/strong>. However, it is still possible to admire its magnificent architecture from the outside and visit other historic homes in the village that are open to the public.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Chidambara Vinayagar Temple<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>The Chidambara Vinayagar Temple,<\/strong> situated right across from the palace and set on a lake, is a vital spiritual site that perfectly complements the atmosphere of Kanadukathan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ayyanar Temples<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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The smiling horses of the temples dedicated to Ayyanar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As you travel through Chettinad, you will inevitably come across these terracotta horses with their enigmatic smiles<\/strong>: these are the votive offerings from the temples of Ayyanar, the protective divinity of the villages against calamities and dark forces\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\nKNOW MORE ABOUT AYYANAR<\/span><\/a>\n\n\n

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Row of horses around one of the Ayyanar temples in Chettinad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Athangudi: Palaces and Tiles<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Less known than that of Kanadukathan, the Athangudi palace illustrates the opulence of the\u00a0Chettiars<\/strong>\u00a0through its immense rooms, its carved teak pillars, its Belgian mirrors and its floors paved with local polychrome tiles\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Athangudi Palace<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Handcrafted entirely on the ground (without kiln-firing) vibrantly patterned Athangudi cement tiles blend <\/strong>glass sand and natural oxides. They remain a decorative hallmark of Chettinad homes.<\/p>\n\n\nKNOW MORE ABOUT ATHANGUDI<\/span><\/a>\n\n\n

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Athangudi tiles adorn the floors of the region’s palatial homes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Chettinad cuisine<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Poulet au poivre et \u00e9pices du Chettinad (Milagu Masala Kozhi) | Photo: Shutterstock<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Chettinad is famous for its gastronomy, considered the most aromatic and spicy in South India due to the generous use of freshly ground spices<\/strong>. Essentially non-vegetarian, it highlights chicken, mutton, fish and seafood, traditionally served with rice or specialties such as dosas, appams, idiyappams and idlis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Practical Information<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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How do you get to Chettinad?<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
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Chettinad is located just 1.5 hours’ drive from Trichy<\/a>, Thanjavur<\/a> and Madurai<\/a>.<\/strong> Although bus and train connections serve the region, opting for rental of a car with driver remains the ideal solution to travel and explore every nook and cranny of the territory with complete peace of mind.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Where to stay?<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
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Bangala<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The main hall of the charming Saratha Vilas hotel, restored by two French architects.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Among the many heritage hotels with varying degrees of renovation, three addresses stand out for their charm, listed here in order of preference: the\u00a0Saratha Vilas<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0(renovated with exquisite taste by two French architects),\u00a0The Bangala<\/a><\/strong> (an institution renowned for its restaurant and its chef) and\u00a0The Lotus hotel<\/strong><\/a> (a colorful address opening at the end of 2024).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The hotel “the lotus palace” in Kanadukathan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Where to eat?<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
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 The Vaadhyar’s House<\/a><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Famous for its cuisine with subtle and bold aromas, Chettinad offers a true gastronomic experience. I particularly recommend the renowned restaurant of The Bangala<\/a><\/strong>, as well as that of The Vaadhyar’s House<\/a><\/strong>, ideally located just opposite the Lotus Hotel in the village of Kanadukathan.<\/p>\n\n\nTRAVEL WITH US IN TAMIL NADU!<\/span><\/a>\n\n\n

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The essence of Chettinad in three days<\/a><\/blockquote>