From 1556 to 1658, Agra was the capital of the Mughal Empire. Today it is best known for the Taj Mahal, one of the world’s most famous monuments and now a kind of emblem of India. With no fewer than 10,000 visits per day, the Taj Mahal seems to enjoy a prestige like no other …
If Gujarat captivates me, it is above all by the human richness of its communities. After exploring the world of the Rabari of Kutch and Saurashtra, I now take you to meet the Rathwa, an ethnic group with a fascinating heritage. Between the mystical protection of their sacred groves and the excitement of their festivals, …
The Mata ni Pachedi, literally “the goddess in the background,” is the triumph of fervour over exclusion. Invented by the Vaghari nomads, deprived of temples, this textile art made cotton canvas the nomadic sanctuary of the Mother Goddess. More than a “Kalamkari of Gujarat”, it is a painted prayer, a beauty born on the margins which …
It was while finishing my story about Mount Girnar that something became obvious: I had forgotten to write about Junagadh, the thousand-year-old city at its feet. To ignore this architectural UFO would have been unforgivable. For Junagadh is a theatre of unusual contrasts, where the extravagance of the Nawabs of Gujarat challenges the splendour of …
As a lime sentinel emerging from the mineral chaos, the Chemrey gompa appears carved out of the raw verticality of a rocky spur. Founded in the 17th century by the lama Tagsang Raspa to sanctify the memory of King Sengge Namgyal, this bastion of the Drukpa lineage spreads its immaculate walls in dizzying terraces, lifting the chant of …
The Santhal people constitute one of India’s largest indigenous communities, primarily settled in the states of Jharkhand, West Bengal, Odisha, and Bihar. They draw their strength from Sarna Dharma, a spiritual tradition that places nature and sacred groves at the heart of their world. This profound connection to the environment is reflected even on the …
Imagine a kitchen utensil capable of rivaling Teflon, yet born of the earth, long before the industrial era. Deep within the dense forests of Chhota Udepur, in Gujarat, the Dhanak community jealously guards an ancestral secret: lacquered pottery. Here, tribal ingenuity outpaces modern technology to offer a healthy, eco-friendly, and naturally non-stick way of cooking.
Some forms of art do not merely traverse time; they suspend it. Deep within the tribal strongholds of India, where the forests of Chhattisgarh and Odisha still whisper tales millennia old, Dhokra survives. A living vestige of the Indus Valley Civilization, this craft has perpetuated the metaphysical process of “lost-wax casting” for 4,000 years. A …
In the rural plains of Chhattisgarh, in central India, lives a community whose physical appearance tells a story of defiance, faith, and human dignity. They are the Ramnami: a group of “untouchables” (Dalits) who, more than a century ago, decided to inscribe their devotion directly onto their skin to protest social exclusion. The Ramnami Samaj …
Inhabiting the high plateaus of Bastar (Chhattisgarh), the Dandami Maria tribe constitute an emblematic branch of the Gond people, distinguished by their preserved cultural identity. Their culture reaches its zenith during the “Bison Dance”, a ritual in which animal power is invoked to the sound of monumental drums. This vitality is fully manifested during Bastar …
The Baiga tribe, nestled deep within the dense forests of northern Chhattisgarh, define themselves above all as the spiritual guardians of a land they refuse to harm. This devotion to the nurturing earth is matched by a profound expertise: the Baiga are masters of forest pharmacopoeia and healers whose botanical knowledge allows them to transform …
The Muria tribe, a major branch of the Gond ethnic group, inhabits the highlands and forests of the Bastar district in Chhattisgarh. Their identity revolves around the Ghotul, a central community institution that governs youth education and village social cohesion. This organisation is grounded in a rigorous egalitarian structure, wherein oral traditions, ancestral rites, and …
In the isolated mountains of the Kandhamal district in Odisha, a geometry of lines and dots traces a sacred alphabet upon the faces of Kutia Kondh women. Far more than a mere adornment, this graphic design constitutes a veritable passport of the skin, an armor against the invisible during life and subsequently an indispensable seal …
Nestled within the rugged terrain of Odisha’s Niyamgiri Hills, the Dongria Kondh cultivate a sovereign elegance that finds expression as much in their adornments as in their bond with the land. For these “guardians of the peaks,” aesthetics and ecology converge in a form of prayer: every spring and every ridge constitutes a sanctuary dedicated …
Nestled within the rugged folds of the Malkangiri district, on the fringes of the state of Odisha, lives the fascinating Bonda tribe, a true mirror of our most distant origins. According to prevailing anthropological theories, they are the direct descendants of the first great human migration to emerge from the African continent. Approximately 60,000 years …
The Lanjia Saura of Odisha constitute one of India’s most extraordinary tribes. Mentioned in millennia-old chronicles, this community maintains a constant dialogue with the invisible realm under the guidance of female shamans, veritable bridges between worlds. Amidst perched villages and ancestral rituals, setting out to meet them offers an enriching immersion into the very roots …
Situated between Jaipur and Agra, Abhaneri, the ancient “City of Brightness” (Abha Nagri), is a historical treasure. Its heritage rests upon two 9th-century CE marvels: the ingenious Chand Baori, a colossal stepwell and true feat of stone engineering, and the Harshat Mata Temple, whose carved ruins whisper of the fervor and finesse of medieval Indian …
Jhunjhunu is the administrative headquarters of Shekhawati, a cultural region renowned for its palatial homes adorned with sumptuous frescoes. Having served as the center for various dynasties, ranging from the Chauhans to the Nawabs, the city is today primarily famous for the imposing Rani Sati Temple. This major place of worship attracts thousands of devotees …
Located on the eastern edge of the Thar Desert, Churu is considered its gateway. It’s a city often overlooked, but for the curious traveler, it reveals itself to be a true gem of authenticity. It offers a unique opportunity to uncover the secrets of Shekhawati, far from the tourist crowds, and to discover a facet …
Far from the bustle of more well-known towns like Mandawa or Nawalgarh, the village of Mahansar offers a peaceful respite. It is in the tranquility of its narrow streets that one of Shekhawati’s gems is revealed: the “Sone Chandi Ki Dukan,” an old shop housing dazzling frescoes, enhanced with genuine gold and silver leaf. Mahansar …
