Holi in the Satpuda Hills

Just one month ago, I was staying with the people of the Satpuda Mountains (Maharashtra) for the Holi celebrations and the enchantment has still not faded! The Adivasis, the indigenous people of India, have a different way of celebrating Holi: here, there is no flood of coloured powders, the celebration is expressed through ecstatic dances to the rhythm around a sacred bonfire. The colors are somehow transposed onto the extravagant costumes worn by the gheriyas (dancers) composed of impressive headdresses and belts made of gourds.

Satpuda
The Vasava gheriyas with their red dress code

From the very beginning of my journey, the signs were already promising. On the road between Rajpipla and Satpuda, in a remote village, I had the chance to witness the dances and songs of the Vasava gheriyas (dancers), whose dress code is red. The rest of my travels would be exceptional.

Satpuda
Le chemin menant à notre maison d’hôtes

To reach the venue of the festivities, we have to cross the undulating landscapes of the Satpuda mountain range, which rises in eastern Gujarat, crosses the border between Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh and ends in Chhattisgarh.

To my great surprise, I discovered a truly mountainous region, composed of steep cliffs and winding roads. Our car reached the top of these mountains after two hours.

Satpuda
Our guesthouse, a traditional Vasava house

Our destination is bucolic, dotted with small hamlets inhabited by the indigenous Bhils and Vasavas. There aren’t any hotels in sight. It’s a region that’s still unspoiled, and I’m glad about that. It’s becoming increasingly rare to find an authentic corner in India.

I suddenly feel like an adventurer in an unknown land. I thank my lucky stars that I was able to find a friend at the last minute who knows the area, otherwise the adventure could have been cut short.

Satpuda
My host preparing chai over a wood fire

It was he who found us a homestay: a traditional bamboo, brick, and adobe house inhabited by a charming Vasava family. For three days, I immersed myself in the lives of my hosts, but that’s another story to be told later on.

Satpuda
The dances of the gheriyas with their impressive headdresses and belts made of gourds

In this region, Holi festivities take place only during the night and last until sunrise. Adivasis from different parts of the Satpuda Hills, as well as from the border states of Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh, gather to celebrate the spring festival with great pomp.

Satpuda
The gheriyas arrive at the place of festivities

The men arrive in small groups and perform circle dances, punctuated by whistles, foghorns and percussion instruments, not forgetting the astonishing belts of bells and gourds.

Satpuda
Round dance of the gheriyas with their belts of bells

Aside from these rows of gourds, the gheriya dancers wear very tall headdresses studded with peacock feathers, pompoms, and flowers, or made of strips of tissue paper in which LED lights flicker. These can reach several meters. It’s a spectacle in itself!

Satpuda
Headdresses made of tissue paper

For the indigenous peoples of India, Holi is primarily considered a harvest festival. It’s a time of relaxation, joy, and letting off steam after months of hard work in the fields. During the festivities, this is expressed by men dressed in saris carrying threshing baskets of wheat.

Satpuda
Men dressed as women with threshing baskets

Previously, these Satpuda festivals were also an opportunity for young people to choose their life partners. However, according to my friend, this tradition seems to be falling out of favour.

Bhil women

The Gheriyas stay awake all night, but they take several breaks and then set off again for another round, until early morning.

The dancers rest before setting off again for a tour around the sacred Holi fire

The outcome of this long night comes before dawn. The participants fill a pit with tree trunks, and the Holi pyre is then lit. A long bamboo stalk is planted in its center. All the Gheriyas present gather and frantically circle the fire; it’s best not to be in their path at that moment! The bamboo stalk catches fire and eventually falls to the ground. Its position on the ground predicts the success or failure of future harvests.

Satpuda
La longue tige de bambou placée au centre du bûcher
The bamboo stem catches fire

As the fire dies down, the gheriyas tear a calabash from their belts and hollow it out with their wooden swords. It will be used to collect some sacred embers. They also place a black tilak made of ash on their foreheads as a sign of blessing.

A participant digs a gourd to collect embers
Satpuda
A ghériya collecting embers with a calabash
Satpuda
The embers are harvested
Satpuda
Participants will place a black tilak (line) on their foreheads with the ashes of the Holi fire as a sign of blessing.

Day breaks, the faces of the troops of men are drawn, their eyes unfocused. They still readily comply with my photographic demands. It must be said that I am the only “gauri” (foreigner) on site, and my presence arouses curiosity.

The first rays of sunshine after a long night
First daytime photo of the dancers

Dawn is the best time to connect with the participants, especially the ladies who, for the occasion, have donned a farandole of silver jewelry.

Bhils Women’s Silver Jewelry Farandole

Late in the morning, the participants head home for a well-deserved rest. Some make the journey on foot, while others try to squeeze through already packed jeeps! And all of this is always accompanied by all sorts of sounds!

And for my part, well, I appreciate how lucky I was to be able to observe these timeless ceremonies which, I am sure, will remain etched in my memory forever.

Last photos of participants before hitting the road again

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