Ayyanar, the rural temples of Tamil Nadu

While wandering through the rural landscape of Tamil Nadu, you may have already come across this astonishing string of smiling horses, lined up proudly around a sacred tree: these are the votive images of the temples dedicated to Ayyanar, the protective deity of villages, whose worship dates back to pre-Vedic times.


Ayyanar, ancient animist rite ?


Ayyanar
The Ayyanar Temple of Solaire Andavar (the king of the forests) – Chettinad

Every time I visit the Ayyanar temples in Chettinad, the same feeling always emerges within me: this cult is surely older than one might think and probably linked to pre-Vedic animist rites of abundance and fertility.

Ayyanar
Ayyanar Temple in Chettinad

As proof of this, I would like to point out the sanctuaries of the Adivasis (indigenous peoples of India) in Poshina or Chhota Udepur (Gujarat), to name but two, where we find these ceramics of aligned horses, certainly smaller in size, but always with this aim of offering and protection.

Votive animals in a shrine of the Rathwa people – Chhota Udepur – Gujarat
The votive horses of the adivasis of Poshina gathered by the thousands around a sacred tree

The origins of Ayyanar are shrouded in mystery, especially since this cult has assimilated several religious and cultural influences over the centuries.

Some believe that Ayyanar is a pre-Vedic Tamil deity that evolved from the Dravidian cult of Shakti as a nurturing and protective goddess.

Ayyanar
Wishing tree where cradles are hung for couples wishing to have children – Solai Andavar – Chettinad

For others, she was the chief deity of the rulers (Pandyas, Cheras and Cholas) who ruled during ancient Tamilakam, a region covering Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Pondicherry, Lakshadweep and the southern parts of Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka.

Ayyanar
Smiling Votive Horses – Chettinad

Ayyanar and Hinduism


Over time, a syncretism took place and indigenous beliefs merged with Brahmanism. Thus, in the 7th century AD, Ayyanar presented himself as the son of Mohini (the female avatar of lord Vishnu) and lord Shiva. Thus, reconciling the two Shaivist and Vishnuite clans.

Mohini, the female avatar of Vishnu with Shiva

The god is also associated with the deity Ayyappan, the latter also having the same progenitors. Ayyappan is a deity from Kerala who is worshipped for his ascetic devotion to Dharma, the ethical and righteous way of life.

Ayyapan – Kerala

Like Ayyapan, Ayyanar is often depicted as celibate. For this reason, in many Ayyanar temples, only postmenopausal women are allowed access to the main sanctuary.

Young women cannot enter the Ayyanar shrine – Solai Andavar – Chettinad

Symbolism of Ayyanar


The name “Ayyanar” is derived from the Tamil word “Ayyan,” which means “elder” or “lord; Ayyan is, moreover, a polite formula used for deities and elders. Ayyanar is therefore perceived as an elder brother who is responsible for protecting his devotees.

Ayyanar
Ayyanar with his followers – Solai Andavar – Chettinad

It is said that the god, mounted on a white horse, patrols the village to ward off evil spirits. This is why Ayyanar temples are always built on the outskirts of villages.

Ayannar is usually accompanied by 21 other mythological figures like Karuppuswami and Veeran who help him protect the village.

Karuppuswami, one of Ayyanar’s followers

Like a warrior, Ayyanar has a robust build. He carries a sword, a whip, or a club symbolizing his strength and the punishment he inflicts on anyone who dares to disturb the serenity of the village.

Ayyanar
Ayyanar accompanied by his two wives, Poornam and Porkamalam,

He is sometimes seen with his two wives, Poornam and Porkamalam, although as seen above, he is usually depicted as a bachelor.


The offerings


Ayyanar
Images of horses, but also cows and dogs, are found in the sanctuaries of Ayyanar.


As a sign of devotion, worshippers offer him clay animals, mainly horses, but also cows, dogs, and elephants, to name a few. Small votive statuettes of men and women are also presented to him.

Votive statuettes from the Ayyanar temples

These images are made by the velars, a specific community of “potter-shamans”.

In a sacred two-day ceremony called “Kutirai Etuppu” (consecration of the horse), the velars bring the terracotta offerings to life; this involves special rituals, processions, trances, and sometimes even animal sacrifices.

The friendly horses of the Ayyanar sanctuaries

The statues are then placed in a shrine. They remain there until they are eroded by time. The clay returns to dust and gradually returns to the earth, like any cycle of life.

These ancestral animist rituals could well die out, as the Velars are becoming less and less numerous; the younger generation, in fact, has little interest in this profession which is undervalued and not very financially satisfying.

Ancient statues that are left there until they turn back to dust

Vous aimerez peut-être aussi...

Athangudi, palace and tiles makers
Athangudi is a major heritage site in the Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu. Its impressive palace, a symbol of successful...
Pillaiyarpatti, the abode of Karpaga Vinayakar
The town of Pillaiyarpatti is located 70 kilometers northeast of Madurai and close to Karaikudi, the city of forgotten palaces....
Navaratri festival in Tamil Nadu
In Tamil Nadu, the nine-day Navaratri festival honoring the Shakti or universal primordial force, is celebrated in a unique way...
Kartikai Deepam, the festival of lights of...
Kartighai or Kartikai Deepam is a Hindu festival of lights that is mainly celebrated in Tamil Nadu, South India. It...
Navapashanam, the nine planets temple
Devipattinam is a small village 17km from the famous Rameshwaram temple. The village boasts an surprising temple consisting simply of...
Chennai (Madras), Capital of Tamil Nadu
Chennai (formerly Madras) lies on the Coromandel coast in southwest India. It is the capital of the state of Tamil...

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

TRAVEL WITH ME !