Ghanerao, royal heritage and rural traditions

Posted: 06/08/2025 by MAGIK INDIA

Nestled at the foot of the Aravalli Mountains in the peaceful Pali district, the village of Ghanerao is an invitation to travel back in time. Once a powerful princely “thikana,” located on the strategic border of Mewar and Marwar, this little-known corner of Rajasthan offers a peaceful escape off the beaten track. It’s the perfect opportunity to immerse yourself in authentic rural life and explore landscapes of wild, unspoiled beauty.

Located on the Sadri-Desuri Road, a major route connecting Rajasthan’s must-see sites, Ghanerao is an ideal stopover. It is in close proximity to Kumbhalgarh Fort, the Great Wall of India, and the Jain wonder of Ranakpur, making it a strategic crossing point for travelers.

For a long time, I watched this village pass by from my car window, promising myself I’d stop there for a while. Now I’ve done it, and I invite you to discover with me why this place is worth the detour.

Ghanerao, a rich historical heritage

Founded in 1606 by Thakur Gopal Singh Mertiya, the Ghanerao thikana was an important fiefdom. Under the authority of its Thakur, or local lord, it comprised 37 villages.

The front facade of Ghanerao Palace with its Jodhpur-style corbelled balconies (red sandstone)

Ghanerao played a unique strategic role, serving as a bridge between the rival kingdoms of Mewar and Marwar. By maintaining close diplomatic ties with the capitals of Jodhpur and Udaipur, it managed to maintain his position of balance amidst these powerful influences.

In the heart of the village, Thakur Gopal Singh Mertiya erected the elegant Ghanerao Castle (Ghanerao Rawla). Its red sandstone and marble construction symbolises a dual heritage: the red sandstone is a nod to the architecture of Jodhpur, while the white marble pays homage to that of Udaipur, reflecting the dual allegiance of this historic stronghold.

The building is still inhabited by the royal family, who have partially converted it into a heritage hotel. The castle is distinguished by its multiple interior courtyards, its arcaded pavilions (baradaris), and its finely carved windows (jaalis), testifying to the finesse of Rajput craftsmanship.

Rawla also houses a museum that traces the history of the thikana and its lords. It features artifacts, weapons, costumes, and everyday objects, as well as a large family archive room, a true record of life in this ancient kingdom.

In a quiet corner of the village stand the cenotaphs (chhatris) of the Ghanerao thakurs. Cenotaphs, typical structures of Rajasthani architecture, are stone constructions topped with domes.

A notable distinction exists between those of men and those of women: the male cenotaphs have steles which indicate the number of wives of the lord, sometimes up to six, a feature absent on the female cenotaphs.

One of the steles bearing the image of Thakur on horseback accompanied by his six wives

A spiritual and artistic center

Ghanerao is also a major site for the Jain faith. In this small village of about 10,000 people, there are no fewer than fifteen Jain temples, the most famous of which is the Muchhal Mahavir. This derasar (currently under renovation) is considered one of the five tirthas (sacred pilgrimage sites) of the Godwar region (the western part of the Aravalli mountain range).

Hindu temples, such as those of Laxmi Narayanji, Murlidhar and Charbhujaji, add to the spiritual atmosphere of the village.

In the past, the village of Ghanerao was also a renowned center for miniature painting. The Thakurs maintained a long tradition of royal portraiture from the early 18th century to the mid-19th century. Thakur Ajit Singh, who ruled from 1800 to 1856, was one of the last rulers to continue this custom. Unfortunately, today, only one artist remains who continues to practice this art.

A real village life

In Ghanerao, time seems to stand still. Strolling through its narrow streets is like immersing yourself in an authentic and preserved daily life.

The village is a true living picture where you can discover shops of yesteryear, scenes of peaceful life and architecture that tells an ancient story.

Here you can take the time to chat with the villagers, always welcoming and proud to share their culture.

Making bases for ghewar, a popular monsoon dessert

The alleys of Ghanerao reveal another treasure: stepwells (baoris). The village has no fewer than 33, each telling the story of a past when water was a precious and carefully managed resource.

Ghanerao, a crossroads for different peoples

Ghanerao is a true melting pot of cultures, home to a wide variety of communities such as the Chaudhary, Kumar (potters), Lohar (ironworkers) and Rajputs, to name a few.

It is around the village, at the foot of the Aravalli Mountains, that one encounters communities with more distinct traditions: the Bhils, the Rabaris and the Garasias.

To meet the Bhils, you must venture deep into the jungle of Kumbalgarh National Park. A jeep ride with a guide is essential, as special permission from the forest department is required.

These people are part of the “adivasi”, a Sanskrit term designating the first inhabitants of India, making them one of the oldest communities.

Nestled on a hillside in the heart of the jungle, their hamlet is reached after a journey of about 30 minutes along a rough path. The journey involves crossing rivers, the flow of which becomes particularly strong during the monsoon season.

The Bhils’ homes are very basic, with no running water or electricity, except for a few solar panels. The harshness of their lives is palpable in every corner of the village.

Speaking with a man from the village, I learned that the Bhil families of this hamlet might soon accept the government’s offer to relocate them near Ghanerao. This initiative is part of the Pradhan Mantri Awas Yojana (PMAY) program, which aims to provide affordable housing to low-income households.

“School is difficult to access and medical care is non-existent; it’s a daily challenge,” he told me. This village may be doomed to become a distant memory.

Retracing our steps, on the edge of Kumbhalgarh National Park, we come across the scattered houses of the Garasias. The women of this community are distinguished by their unique traditional attire. The most notable element of their costume is the jhulki, a fitted tunic with embroidery including a heart and the names of their family members. Each garment thus becomes a personal story, making each piece absolutely unique.

And of course, as in the entire Pali district, it is impossible not to come across the Rabaris, who roam the region with their herds of camels, sheep and goats, the last witnesses of a thousand-year-old tradition.

Also to see in the surrounding area

The region offers many points of interest, such as Kumbalgarh, Ranakpur, Narlai, and Garhbor. However, I will focus on the special temples of Khetlaji, located about 15 km from Ghanerao.

Khetlaji, also known as Shri Bhairav or Shri Kshetrapaal Ji, is a rural deity of Rajasthan. Devotees consider him to be an incarnation of Lord Shiva in his ferocious form.

The temple’s bhopaji (priest) and Khetlaji’s two dogs in the background

The deity is accompanied by two faithful canine companions, a black dog and a white dog, which are his sacred mount (vahana). These two animals illustrate the contrast between positive and negative. Another of his representations is a self-manifested serpent idol, that is, a rock that has naturally taken the form of a serpent.

Khetlaji is also represented by the idol of a snake.

Khetlaji is seen as a protective figure and devotees often seek his blessing for important events such as marriage or the birth of a child.

The newlyweds come to have their union blessed in the Khetlaji temple

The most famous shrine in the area is the Sonana Khetlaji Temple, an ancient structure. According to tradition, the main temple was moved from its original location in Sonana to the nearby village of Sarangwas. Today, temples dedicated to the deity exist in both locations.

Where to stay in Ghanerao?

The “Aloof Jungle Lodge” resort and its former hunting lodge around which the lodges are scattered

Aloof Jungle Lodge : My top pick in Ghanerao is these idyllic lodges, a true haven of peace for nature lovers. Located on the edge of the Kumbhalgarh Nature Reserve, this resort offers charming cottages harmoniously integrated into their natural surroundings. Imagine waking up with a breathtaking and completely private view of the jungle directly from your bed, and even from your bathroom! The experience is even more intense during the monsoon season when nature is at its most exuberant. Absolutely love it!

Ghanerao Royal Castle : Ghanerao Castle has been partially transformed into a 3-star heritage hotel, offering an immersive experience in the region’s history. You’ll stay in a setting that’s been left in its original state, with rooms that offer a period feel.