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Dussehra at Deogarh Hills
Dussehra, which translates to “the tenth day,” is a Hindu festival celebrated with great fervour throughout India. It symbolises the victory of good over evil. This day marks the end of Navaratri, the “nine-night” period also dedicated to the worship of the goddess Durga and her nine forms. In the Deogarh region, near Rajsamand in Rajasthan, these celebrations take on a unique charm. They are deeply influenced by the local Mewari culture and take place against the spectacular backdrop of the Aravalli Mountains, offering a festive atmosphere that is both pious and rooted in the region’s natural beauty.
Visiting Bagatpura, the village of the “Deogarh Hills” haveli, had been a long-time dream. Rohitashva Singh Chundawat, its owner, had often invited me to explore his home. As a travel professional, I always explore places before suggesting them to my travelers.
Navaratri presented itself as the perfect opportunity. Fascinated by the photos of the event shared on the guesthouse’s Instagram account, I naturally jumped at the chance to accept an invitation to attend.
Rural Indian festivals have a unique flavor, capturing the very essence of these ancestral celebrations. This is the case with Navaratri, which celebrates the Shakti and whose rites have their roots in ancient animist cults. Indigenous civilisations in India, from the peoples of the Indus Valley to the Dravidian populations, already worshipped mother goddesses and nature deities.
The Shakti is a living force that is directly integrated into the daily lives of villagers. Almost every village has its own guardian mother goddess, nicknamed “Gram Devi” or “Gram Mata.” These goddesses are revered as protectors of the village and its inhabitants, protecting them from disease, natural disasters, and evil spirits.
On the road to the Deogarh hills, the Dussehra atmosphere was already palpable. I passed several groups of villagers walking along the roadside, carrying the famous pots or baskets of sprouted seeds and the sacred fire (dhuni). My driver patiently stopped several times to allow me to capture these scenes.
The sprouted seeds originate from the Ghatasthapana ritual, which begins the Navaratri period. This rite involves planting barley seeds in an earthen pot. The pot, called a Kalash, represents fertility and renewal and is placed at the center of worship during the nine days of the festival.
Dhuni is a purification ritual using sacred fire and smoke that symbolises the “yoni” (vagina) and is associated with the cult of Shakti.
After settling in and getting a tour, I set off with Rohitashva Singh to the temple that would host the final Navaratri festivities. It is dedicated to the goddess Chamunda, associated with the destruction of evil. She is known for her fearsome appearance and is closely related to other warrior goddesses like Kali and Durga.
Activity was still low, with ceremonies scheduled to begin in the evening and continue all night. I had the opportunity to meet the locals, who were both curious and excited, especially the children, amused by the presence of a “gauri” (a foreigner).
After a quick return to the hotel for refreshments, we returned to the temple, just in time for the start of the aarti in honor of the deity. This was the prelude to hours of repetitive chanting and awe-inspiring trances.
During one of the trances, a Bhopaji (a kind of shaman) circled the goddess’s temple with a sword, cutting his tongue and striking his body with the same blade. At his side, other devotees whipped their backs with chains in an intense ritual.
The phenomena of trance and possession, very common in rural Rajasthan and throughout tribal parts of India, are remnants of animist practices where the individual served as a channel for the spirit of the natural world or of ancestors.
After a few hours there, I returned to the hotel. It was important for me to rest and prepare for the long day ahead, which would be the highlight of Navaratri.
Early in the morning, I toured the village. I was invited to have chai with the locals I had met the day before, before heading to the temple where the day’s festivities began. The women were singing while an aarti was performed, followed by the sacrifice of a goat.
Animal sacrifice, mentioned in ancient Brahmanic and Vedic texts and later adopted in tantric rituals, is a historically accepted practice in Hinduism. However, due to ahimsa (non-violence), current Hindu opinions on the validity of this practice differ. It is noteworthy that the meat of the sacrificed animal is not wasted but cooked and shared with the community.
The sacrifice completed, a man and a young girl emerged from the temple, stepping back while holding pots of sprouted seeds.
The trances intensified as the head Bhopaji infused the energy of Shakti into the other members of the community. They removed their shirts and tied a belt of wheat around their waists, promising a bountiful harvest.
At the end of the trance, the villagers began a long procession of several kilometers to a sacred well where the pots were offered in a final gesture symbolising life and fertility, all accompanied by new trances.
Returning from the well, the bhopajis planted the temple flag in the middle of a vast meadow, triggering new trances that allowed the villagers to ask their questions to the shamans.
Navaratri at Deogarh Hills was an intense experience, far beyond my expectations. I witnessed a spirituality where each ritual vibrates to the rhythm of the community. It was a true privilege to share these moments with the villagers, another “MAGIK INDIA” immersion that will remain etched in my memory.
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