Palitana, 3500 steps to the sacred

On the Shatrunjaya hill, the temples of Palitana rise like a marble prayer, caressing the heavens with their slender spires. The pilgrim and the traveler meet there in a shared endeavor, ascending the 3,500 steps that lead to this holy Jain city. The silent ascent offers a suspended interlude, allowing one to admire the majesty of the horizon while tracing a subtle inner path.

Palitana, Princely City

At the foot of the sacred hill of Shatrunjaya lies Palitana. Although today it is merely a peaceful town in Gujarat, it was once the proud capital of a princely state, founded by the Rajput nobleman Thakore Saheb Shahji.

Shatrunjaya: The Mount of Inner Victory

It is toward the heights that all eyes converge. In Sanskrit, Shatrunjaya resonates like a promise: “the place of victory over inner enemies”, an invitation to vanquish one’s own passions, anger, and ego. Alongside Mount Abu, Girnar, and Shravanabelagola, this sacred mountain stands as one of the four pillars of the Jain faith, a spiritual beacon that every devotee aspires to climb at least once in their lifetime.

In the Footsteps of the Great Masters

The mystical aura of Shatrunjaya is rooted in the mists of time. It was upon these sacred slopes that Adinath (the very first Tirthankar) or “ford-maker” shattering the cycle of reincarnation, attained enlightenment beneath the banyan tree. Following in his footsteps, imbued with purity, twenty-three of the twenty-four great masters of this faith came here to sanctify the ground through their meditations.

A forest of marble born from the ashes

Crowning the summit, Palitana unfolds the largest and most grandiose Jain complex in the world, a veritable celestial city where only the gods reside. More than 800 white marble temples cluster there, harmoniously distributed within nine fortified enclosures known as tuks.

This architectural masterpiece is a resurrection: although the first sanctuaries emerged around the 11th century, the fury of Muslim invasions in the 14th and 15th centuries reduced them to ashes. Like the phoenix, the holy city rose from its ruins as early as the 16th century, thanks to the devotion of Jain merchants who rebuilt the greater part of the splendors we behold today.

The Holy of Holies: The Temple of Adinath

At the center of this constellation of stone, the Temple of Adinath remains the ardent heart of pilgrims’ fervor. In the Holy of Holies, the statue of the First saint sculpted from marble of immaculate whiteness is adorned with gold and studded with precious stones, capturing the light of the oil lamps.

The Sanctuary of the Digambaras

Not far from there, amidst the other remarkable edifices that dot the ridge, stands the temple of the Digambars, the branch of Jainism known as the “sky-clad”, whose ascetic monks carry their renunciation to the point of total nudity. This particular sanctuary houses nine altars of exquisite delicacy. At its center sits a one-meter-tall effigy of Bhagawan Shantinath, the sixteenth Tirthankara, carved from a block of pure white marble whose mineral serenity seems to suspend time.

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Preparing for the Ascent

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Embrace the rhythm of the walk: allow at least half a day, or even longer, depending on your pace, to complete the 7 kilometers of this round-trip journey. Ideally, you should tackle the first steps at dawn to beat the scorching heat and savor the mystical coolness of the morning.

The Bearer Option: If the 7-kilometer walk or the 3,500 steps seem insurmountable to you, rest assured that there is a traditional solution available. From dawn onwards, at the trailhead, porters offer their services to make the ascent on your behalf. Simply remember to agree upon the official rate before setting off, and to set aside a tip to acknowledge this monumental effort.

Honoring the Sacred Earth: the ascent calls for absolute adherence to Jain precepts, founded on ahimsa (strict non-violence). Consequently, no leather items (whether belts, wallets, or straps) may pass through the gates of the hill. Likewise, modest, covering attire is mandatory; shorts, sleeveless tops, and overly tight-fitting clothing are strictly prohibited.

Travel light: to preserve the purity of the site, please refrain from bringing any food. Simply slip a water bottle into your bag, as the mount is an area fiercely protected from all plastics.

The Gods’ Rest: do not forget that Shatrunjaya is considered the supreme abode of the deities. As such, the mount must be restored to absolute silence at dusk: no one—not even the temple priests—is permitted to spend the night there.

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Where to stay?

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In Palitana

Let’s be clear: accommodation at the foot of the sacred hill is notable more for its austerity than for its refinement. The hotels there are, for the most part, very rustic, perfect for a purely functional stopover, but sparing on comfort.

Amidst this spartan array of options, only the Vijay Vilas truly stands out in magnificent fashion. This former summer palace, erected in 1906 by Maharana Vijay Sinhji, has retained all of its old-world charm. Its high ceilings, period furnishings, and expansive verandas offer a nostalgic immersion into the grandeur of Gujarat’s princely states. It is the perfect spot to savor the silence of twilight, a glass of tea in hand, while gazing into the distance at the majestic silhouette of Shatrunjaya Hill as it glows crimson in the setting sun.

Traveller’s Note: The estate features only six unique rooms. Suffice it to say that spots are highly sought-after and book up fast, so don’t delay in reserving if you wish to treat yourself to this privilege at the foot of Shatrunjaya.

In Bhavnagar

If you cannot find what you are looking for in Palitana or if you are seeking hotels of international standard, staying in Bhavnagar (located approximately 50–55 km away) is an excellent alternative. You can then simply take a taxi early in the morning (allow for a drive of about 1 hour and 15 minutes) to arrive at the foot of the Palitana hill right at dawn.

You can spend the night there in upscale hotels or heritage properties, such as Nilambag Palace Hotel : this architectural gem from 1859 harmoniously blends European Gothic splendor with the grandeur of Rajput palaces. Its lounges adorned with crystal chandeliers along with its dark wood paneling and portrait galleries, instantly transport you back to the era of Gujarat’s great sovereigns. 

[ Palitana Yatra ]

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In the footsteps of pilgrims in Gujarat

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