If Gujarat captivates me, it is above all by the human richness of its communities. After exploring the world of...
Dwarka, the lost city of Lord Krishna
Resting like an offering upon the shores of the Arabian Sea, Dwarka exudes the peace of cities beyond time. When twilight sets the ghats ablaze, the traveler wanders there amidst the merchants of mother-of-pearl. It is here, within this eternal sanctuary, that destinies intersect: the sovereign destiny of Lord Krishna, who founded his empire here, and the passionate destiny of the poetess Mirabai, whose songs still resonate within these walls.
A jewel among the Sapta Puri (India’s seven ancient and sacred cities) Dwarka also stands as one of the four major shrines of the Char Dham. It was here, upon this sanctified shore, that Lord Krishna, an avatar of the divine Vishnu, chose to settle five millennia ago. Fleeing Mathura, he laid the foundations of his mythical capital, forever etching the name of Dwarka into the sacred geography of Hinduism.
Mirabai, the Divine Poetess
Dwarka also remains the eternal sanctuary of the saintly poetess Mirabai. Born a princess, she renounced the splendors of the world to devote herself entirely to the adoration of Lord Krishna. It was upon this sacred shore that she spent the final years of her existence, weaving her celebrated poems of divine love. Legend whispers that one day, as she crossed the threshold of the Dwarkadeesh temple, her soul dissolved into her God. Mirabai vanished forever into the invisible, leaving behind as the sole vestige of her presence only her sari, found draped around the idol of her Beloved.
Dwarka, the Atlantis of India?
It is said that the original city was erected nearly three millennia ago, only to be brutally engulfed by a marine cataclysm, sealing its destiny as a distant Indian Atlantis. Yet today, the myth seems to be rising from the abysses: recent oceanographic excavations have brought to light mysterious temple structures, lying dormant off the coast of Dwarka. History is in the making… To be continued.
Dwarkadeesh Temple
A sentinel of faith perched upon the banks of the Gomti, this hallowed site of pilgrimage carries within it the memory of the ages. Legend has it that Vajranabh himself, the great-grandson of Lord Krishna, laid its foundation stone twenty-five centuries ago. Tested by history and shattered time and again by Mughal conquerors, the temple has nonetheless always triumphed over destruction.
Its current sandstone silhouette, rebuilt in 1730 and refined in the 19th century, rises five stories high, supported by a forest of sixty finely carved columns. Towering fifty-two meters overhead, it stands guard over the Holy of Holies, where Dwarkadhish, the four-armed avatar of the divine Vishnu, reigns supreme.
N.B.: Photography is strictly prohibited within the temple grounds. Mobile phones and electronic devices must be deposited at the free lockers located at the entrance.
Dwarka Ghats
Dwarka is laid out around a succession of twelve ghats that descend to meet the waters of the Gomti. Throughout this spiritual promenade, the landscape is dotted with a multitude of small temples and miniature shrines, from which waft the scents of incense.
To walk in these places is to brush shoulders with the divine, for according to sacred texts, the Gomti River is regarded as a manifestation of the Ganges descended from the heavens to flow upon the earth. It is precisely at the foot of Dwarka that this waterway concludes its journey, emptying directly into the Arabian Sea.
As the sun begins to set, the ghats of the Gomti are enveloped in a golden light. An immutable local life then unfolds there; seated directly upon the stone, merchants display harvests of shells with pearlescent glimmers.
Further on, Gir cows, with their tawny coats and curled ears, amble with serene majesty amidst the pilgrims. With a gentle yet insistent gaze, they beg passersby for a sweet or leafy treat.
The time has come to make one’s way toward the jetty, where a lonely sanctuary rises, facing the elements. People come here to watch the sun melt into the Sea of Oman, setting the waves ablaze with a final burst of crimson and gold.
Panch Kui
Forging a new path above the waters, the Sudama Setu suspension bridge connects the fervor of the ghats to the shores of Pancha Kund. For the price of a single coin, the traveler treats themselves to a crossing suspended between sky and river, gazing out upon the majestic Dwarkadhish Temple.
On the other side of the bridge, the journey takes a more secluded turn. Hidden there is the Panchnad Tirth (or Panch Kui), adjacent to the Shree Laxminarayan shrine.
The Panch Kui are five centuries-old wells dedicated to the Pandava brothers, the heroes of the Mahabharata. Their marvel lies in their water: although the salty ocean surrounds the site, these springs yield miraculously fresh, potable water, the subtle flavor of which varies from one well to another. Local tradition attributes this miracle to the rituals and acts of penance that the five brothers once performed at this very spot.
Right next to these wells stands the serene temple dedicated to Shri Laxminarayan, Lord Vishnu and his consort Lakshmi. It is a simple, peaceful sanctuary that invites quiet devotion.
The tour concludes on the beach, which stretches out toward the horizon. In a more touristy atmosphere, camels advance there with a nonchalant gait, offering visitors rides at the whim of the sea breeze.
Dwarka Appliqué
Appliqué is an ancient textile technique that consists of layering and sewing fabric motifs onto a solid background, unlike patchwork, which is assembled edge-to-edge like a puzzle.
In Dwarka (Gujarat), this craft known as Katab takes on a sacred and unique dimension. The artisans (who are predominantly women) cut the fabric directly freehand, working entirely intuitively and without any prior chalk markings. Their creations burst with vivid, contrasting hues such as red, saffron, or blue set against a white background. these colours that are highly symbolic, reflecting cosmic energy and devotion to Lord Krishna.
During your journey with us, you will have the opportunity to discover the NGO GRAM HAT, which celebrates the craftsmanship of women from the Bhopa Rabari community through the traditional art of appliqué. This will be a special moment to meet them and engage in conversation.
Bhadkeshwar Mahadev Temple
Connected to the coast by a walkway that becomes submerged at high tide, this island sanctuary houses a Swayambhu Lingam, a naturally formed lingam. Visiting in the late afternoon allows you to witness the evening rituals and prayers at sunset, set to the rhythm of the waves.
Bhoothnath & Siddheshwar Temples
Secluded from the tumult of Dwarka, the unassuming shrines of Siddheshwar and Bhoothnath offer a retreat suspended in time. Consecrated to Shiva, these two temples house swayambhu lingams at their very heart.
Before the gates of the Siddheshwar Temple, a monumental banyan tree spreads its aerial roots, creating a cathedral of greenery and welcome shade. At its foot, an old pump well, polished by the years and the countless hands of pilgrims completes this tableau of an eternal India.
It is beneath this benevolent shade that passing sadhus pause. With shoulders draped in saffron and faces etched by asceticism, they lay down their burdens here whether for a shared cup of chai or a moment of silent meditation.
Rukmini Temple (2 km)
Situated on the outskirts of Dwarka, the Rukmini Devi Temple is dedicated to the spouse of Sri Krishna. Its secluded location is explained by a legend found in the Skanda Purana: while the couple was pulling the chariot of the short-tempered sage Durvasa, Rukmini – parched with thirst – drank sacred water that had sprung from the ground without offering any to their guest. Offended, the sage condemned them to live apart, and the goddess settled here to perform her penance. In commemoration of this mythological thirst, the temple perpetuates the custom of Jal Daan, inviting pilgrims to donate drinking water for the needy.
Although its spiritual foundations are older, the current structure, built in the Nagara style, dates back to the 12th century. More modest than the Dwarkadhish Temple, this shrine remains a masterpiece of sculpture: despite erosion caused by sea spray, its exterior facades reveal rich bas-reliefs depicting deities, human figures (naratharas), and elephants (gajatharas). The heart of the temple houses a marble idol of Rukmini Devi.
Nageshwar Jyotir Lingam (18 km)
Leaving the ghats of Dwarka to venture eighteen kilometers inland, the traveler discovers the Nageshwar Temple. It is in this secluded spot, amidst peaceful nature, that the Lord of Cobras resides guardian of one of the twelve mythical Jyotir Lingams, those primordial manifestations of the divine appearing as pillars of light. The sanctuary comes into view long before one reaches it; it is impossible to miss the stone colossus flanking it a monumental Shiva, twenty-five meters tall, seated in eternal meditation and gazing out over the landscape.
LIRE LA SUITE +Beyt Dwarka (30 km)
Situated at the edge of the Gulf of Kutch, Beyt Dwarka is a marine enclave located thirty kilometers from the holy city. Also known as Beyt Shankhodhar, the island owes its renown to the countless conches that the ocean deposits upon its sands precious shells whose breath resonates during sacred ceremonies.
While access to this patch of land was once solely a matter of maritime adventure, a new bridge now connects the island to the rest of the world, leaving travelers today with the choice of taking this new suspended route or opting for the traditional ferry crossing.
Far more than a mere sanctuary, this mystical island is reputed to have been the true abode of Lord Krishna during his years of reign. Its very name Beyt, meaning “the Gift” whispers the memory of a legendary offering: the one Krishna received here at the hands of his humble and faithful childhood friend, Sudama.
Indeed, ancient manuscripts and archaeological remains wrested from the sands seem to concur in designating these shores as the city’s original cradle. Today, two sovereign temples stand guard over the island: that of Sri Keshavrai Ji, dedicated to the lord of this place, and the sanctuary of Hanuman Dandi, which harbors a rarer fervor and a place where the monkey-god Hanuman sits enthroned alongside his son, Makardhwaja.
N.B.: Photography is strictly prohibited within the temple grounds.
Practical Information
Where to stay in Dwarka?
When staying in Dwarka, the available options fall into two distinct categories. On the outskirts of the city, large luxury establishments offer modern comforts and spacious surroundings, while the historic center abounds with small two- and three-star hotels, perfect for immersing oneself in the heart of the local fervour.
Amidst these urban accommodations, the 3-star Dwarkadhish Lords Eco Inn is the one I recommend: its prime location offers breathtaking views of the Gomti River, and its immediate proximity to the sacred ghats allows you to live in tune with the rhythm of daily rituals and prayers.
When to go?
- The best season: opt for the months of November through February. The winter climate there is particularly pleasant and cool (temperatures generally range between 10°C and 25°C), making it ideal for visiting temples and going for walks without suffering from the heat.
- For a taste of local fervour: if you wish to experience the city’s spiritual effervescence at its peak, visit during the festival of Janmashtami (the birth of Krishna, usually in August). The city comes alive with grandiose celebrations and fairs, though it does become excessively crowded.
How to get there?
- By Train: The Dwarka railway station (DWK) is located in the heart of the city. It is well-connected by regular train services to major cities such as Ahmedabad, Rajkot, Mumbai, and Delhi.
- By Air: Dwarka does not have its own airport. The nearest options are Porbandar Airport (approximately 95 km away) and Jamnagar Airport (approximately 110–145 km away), both of which operate regular flights to major Indian hubs. From these airports, you will need to complete your journey by taxi or bus.
- By Road: The city is very well-connected via the national road network (notably NH151). Public buses operated by the Gujarat state transport corporation (GSRTC), as well as numerous private bus companies, run daily services from Jamnagar, Rajkot, and Ahmedabad.
TRAVEL TO GUJARAT WITH MY AGENCY!
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Thanks ! 🙂
Great Article !
It may be possible… Thanks for your message, best regards, Mathini
Nice thank you for showing me that it is not a myth. I am an Indian